On October 11th I boarded the plane, by myself, at twenty one years old, on behalf of the International Rescue Committee, to venture to Northern Kurdistan, better known as Iraq. I didn't journal during this time, instead I jotted down notes and published a Facebook post during my journey. Below is an account of my experiences. Enjoy!

Notes from October 2018:

• I am aware that my pictures and stories are portraying Iraq in a particular light. I am in the northern region where things are safer and the people have been less affected than those in the south. However, there is beauty and there is destruction here. I've only been in country for three days. But focusing on poverty, bombed buildings and more is highlight the effects of ISIS without understanding fully where it stems from. That would be irresponsible of me. I hope to spend this time learning from beneficiaries instead of highlighting preconceived biases. Bare with me
• This country is kind of amazing in their resilience to rebuild their land, economy and independence. Meeting with beneficiaries and speaking about programs implemented here has been eye opening to say the least. Ultimately  they are working towards a world where the IRC is no longer necessary in their land.
• Western oil companies moved out of the region after the threat of ISIS became eminent, halting construction and therefore the advancement of the economy.
• ISIS never made it to Erbil and it was a shock when they gained control of Mosul. ISIS did come within 30km of Erbil which caused immense emotional trauma throughout the region and the fear that it could happen again.
• Erbil is part of the Kurdistan region in Iraq where as Mosul is Iraqi land.
• Kurdistan is backed by the United States military (even though they are technically an Iraqi territory)
• Today was really fucking hard. I went to West Mosul -- the main location of ISIS headquarters in Kurdistan. Then went to a refugee camp two hours away where all the people who used to live in West Mosul now live. West Mosul is completely destroyed and people cant return to their homes ONLY TWO HOURS AWAY. Its not like this happened decades ago or that they fled their homes and are seeking refuge countries away. Their home. Fighting ended last year so these people (50%) children are newly traumatized and dealing with their displacement.
• The current problem in the region isn't necessarily ISIS or the Islamic state rather small militia groups that are forming to are themselves and their people causing internal conflicts, gender based violence, education deficient and food insecurities.
• I also want to recognize that West Mosul and Kirkuk are just one region. I've met people whose children are graduating from college with degrees in pharmacy, engineering and who attended schools here in Iraq. People who come from established neighborhoods or fled they never experienced and ISIS regime first hand.
• People who have had successful business, have worked with NGOs all their career, who have worked for embassies and haven't suffered the way one could assume.
• I visited the Lalish Temple, the holiest place for the Yazidi people, a religion that pre dates modern religion by over a thousand years. The temple is partially underground through tunnels. The religion has components of all three of the Abrahamic religions. In one of the tunnels there are drapes of fabric hanging from the ceiling where you tie a knot and pray for your wish. In another there is a hole in the wall where you throw in a coin. If you miss the hole they believe that youre going to hell. I skipped that one. Theres another where you have 3 chances to throw a piece of fabric on the terrain, if you make it all your dreams will come true. I MADE IT FIRST TRY. Theres these huge pots of oil that have been i the tunnels for thousands of years and have made the one solid stone squishy like walking on putty (you have to walk through barefoot)
• The temple was a beautiful experience. The Yazidi people are supposed to make this trip, bathe in the holy water and light candles at least once in their  lives. One family lives on the grounds and takes care of the entire place. This is said to be the location of where Noahs Ark docked.
• The Yazidi people are ethnically persecuted in Iraq. That is why refugee camps in Northern Iraq are so unquie. People who follow Christianity, Islam and are Yazidi are typically living side by side.
• I woke up over looking mosque with Fajr loud in the distance.

Published on Facebook October 18th, 2019:

Even though my works not done, I thank the Northern Iraq & Kurdistan field offices for a life changing and beautiful week. The people I have encountered have forever positively changed my life.

Every story-- from beneficiaries to NGO workers both national and ex pats showed that the work that goes into this organization is deeper than I could have ever imagined. The International Rescue Committee touches more than lives, we are touching entire nations. I feel as if my words aren't even close to portraying the things I saw and the moments I've experienced.

From beneficiary programming, to cash distribution, from refugee camps to completely destroyed cities, to learning about psychological support to the complexities of food distribution, the importance of providing space for women and girls to challenging the norms of gender based violence, how to create businesses and continue education - -the work isn't close to done, but this week has taught me that the people in this region are more than simply deserving of living in a world without conflict. It's taught me about the diversity of the region. It taught me that the West's simplistic portrayal of the Middle East isn't just wrong, it’s irresponsible. Some people’s lives have drastically changed whilst others are relatively the same. That doesn’t invalidate the crisis that has taken place in some cities here.

I spent months briefing, creating documents and annoying the country team with my obsessive emails only to have everything I thought I knew about Iraq challenged the second I stepped off the plane. My delegation was amazing, asking all the right questions, listening, and simply absorbing. I planned my first trip, saw it through to completion and ended in the field. This experience has changed the course of my career let alone my entire life.

If you read this whole thing please read about the work the IRC is doing around the globe, I may be biased but the work and time our employees put in, are amazing.

https://www.rescue.org

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